We grew up in our childhood during the glorious days of Jute, the golden fibre of Bangladesh. As we grew up we found the golden fibre being turned into a burden. I wonder if that glory could be regained and turned into gold again.
I enjoy playing and experimenting with fibre as it is my passion of the last twenty years. In 2016, I was actually looking for opportunity to develop fibre out of waste and at that time, coincidently, jute came to my mind. I soon found that the finest jute yarn produced in the conventional jute spinning system is something of Ne 3-4/s that is very course even for denim and twill fabric.
I came to know that with the conventional jute spinning system it is not possible to produce finer count beyond Ne 4/s. But jute fabric can be dyed and printed with soft finish, and smooth surface that has soft hand feeling. Due to its unique character the finished fabric has drape that is unique and good for fashion. It also has an effect similar to that of flex fibre. Only difference between flex and jute fibre is the thermal property which is reverse. Flex is cool while jute is warm.
Jute is a very long fibre. This fibre can not be processed in normal spinning process as the length is too long. We developed during last two years and came out with jute staple fibre, made ring-blended yarn up to Ne 38/s and open-blended yarn up to Ne 18/s with cotton and PSF. Finally, we made knit and woven fabric which was a great delight for us.
Some information on blends and counts experimented to produce jute-blended yarn:
- In ring we blended up to 50/50 jute staple fibre/cotton and also 50/50 jute staple fibre/PSF.
- In rotor we blended up to up to 50/50 jute staple fibre/cotton and also 50/50 jute staple fibre/PSF.
- In ring we made up to Ne 38/s
- In rotor we made up to Ne 18/s
- We made both knit and woven yarn
- Our experiment shows that jute-blended yarn is suitable for high end fashion clothing denim, twill, suiting and home textile.
- Jute-blended yarn and fashion items are similar to flex-blended yarn. The price of jute-blended yarn would be slightly higher than flex blended yarn. We hope jute staple fibre would be ready for commercial production by 2019.
Jute-blended yarn and fabric can be used to make high end denim, shirting, suiting and home textile. This might open opportunity to revive the glory of jute.
Abdul Wadud is Consultant, Sonali Aansh Group.
